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This is a photograph of the fuse box under the hood, near the battery. The red squared in area is what is described as the ELD, or electrical Load Detector, because that our car. The ELD is basically a current transformer the monitors the quantity of current draw the car is pulling from the battery. This amount varies from time come time depending upon what you have turned top top (various electric devices). The ELD will certainly output .1 - 4.8 volts come the ECU. This referral voltage is what speak the ECU to boost or decrease the ar strength in the alternator, which consequently bumps up the output of the alternator. I have recently performed a test on mine charging system, because I to be / am having difficulties with my amps cutting out. I have traced it to the mechanism voltage not being high sufficient - i m sorry is resulting in the battery to be strained. Essentially my battery is shot. Ago to the subject at your disposal though. The ELD. Due to the fact that all aftermarket electrical feeds are pretty much tapped off of the optimistic terminal of the battery, the current path is no flowing v the ELD. What walk this do? every one of the amplifiers, LCD monitors, and pretty lot anything else the isn"t fed with the manufacturing facility wiring that the car draw a many current.Since the ELD isn"t detecting any extr current draw from the battery, the is walking to save the alternator"s calculation at minimum (12.3 volts) - just sufficient to save the battery charged, plus sufficient to run the solution of the car. Esstentially this poses two difficulties / issues. 1. You are not gaining the many bang for your buck once you run your stereotype equipment, because the system voltage is no at 14.4, however usually reduced unless various other accessories of the auto are active. 2. This is walk to placed a many strain on the battery and also possibly the charging system. There is one possible remedy to this the I have the right to think of at the minute (besides transforming on miscellaneous in the auto to bang the mechanism voltage up), and also that is come hardwire a 0-5 volt signal into the ECU through a rheostat in line, to have the ability to manually readjust the output of the alternator. Why not simply run the 5 volts straight to the ECU? Honda design this mechanism the means they did because that a couple of reasons. The an initial is to conserve gas. As soon as the alternator isn"t placing out its preferably power, there is less rotational resistance as result of the electrical nature that the magnetic areas - this causes the engine to occupational less, hence saving gas. The second reason in mine opinion, would certainly be to conserve wear and also tear on the alternator. If you were to drive about with the alternator output maxed the end 24/7, your alternator isn"t going come be around for also long..... If you decide to try this - i am in no method held responsible for what wake up if you damages your vehicle or yourself! take it this article as details only - I might attempt the above modification myself, however I don"t setup on doing the anytime soon (due come the reality that I need my auto all the time at the moment).