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You are watching: 2002 ford mustang cylinder head temperature sensor location


Have the part, just can"t number out whereby it goes, and if it"s whee i can"t view it, how deserve to I get to it. Help?
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The 2002 version year V6 does NOT have a coolant temperature sensor (ECT). Rather it has a cylinder head temperature sensor (CHT).The CHT is situated on the cylinder head not in the coolant path.The V6 is bad about trapping air within the motor. The trapped air causes the ECT to review low. The motor might overheat and also the ECT would never show a problem. The CHT is not affected by waiting trapped in the coolant loop.
2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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Why space are you instead of the CHT? It"s no the type of component that normally goes bad. If over there are any DTC codes these must be posted. There space 1000"s and they each have a story come tell.Has the cooling mechanism been recently serviced? If so, go you monitor the V6 cooling refilling procedures? If not, likely there is waiting trapped within the motor and this is the true resource of motor temperature issues.http://www.gimpppa.org/foru...lar-rpms-showing-hot-post2604913.html#2604913If you still think that the CHT needs replacing, shot looking for a wire that disappears under the manifold in the direction of the engine valley. It"s not straightforward to uncover unless looking carefully for it.

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2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Currently my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
P1285 code and also heater began blowing cold. After that, it appeared to just blow warmth when accelerating or on highway. Gauge top top dash never ever showed overheat, that was very first really cold job of the year. Changed thermostat, v fail for sure (will stick open), refilled coolant in radiator by removed cap and also running engine, heater on, continuing to fill as level walk down. Didn"t know about vent screw. Has actually been to run cold since thermostat replacement. Temp gauge never gets above C, heater rarely blows warm. Squealing indigenous serpentine belt and/or pulleys in ~ times, runs extremely rough at cold start. Will shot the advice in your link, see if I can let the waiting out prior to replacing the sensor. Especially since (according come the man I purchase it type last year) he"d changed the cylinder head temp sensor twice, climate some various other sensor that"s favor 60 bucks, then placed in a new water pump, radiator, thermostat, and hoses within the critical 2 years. If this works, I"ll be overjoyed. How regularly do they commonly need to have the wait bled out? excessive temperature changes, maybe?